I have been making pendants with wood tiles and then covering them with clear resin that I bought at a craft store. As you know, most of these resin products come in two separate parts and when mixed, they can be applied and then harden to create a glass like finish. Usually, I have no trouble with this product. However, if I don't mix the two parts in exact equal measure, the pendent may not dry completely and is very slightly sticky when finished. One of the bottles of the resin mix is labeled ';hardener.'; If I rub just a small amount of this hardener onto the finished pendant, do you think it will counteract the stickiness and finish properly? If not, is there a way to get rid of this problem aside from making brand new pendants?Question about making jewelry with clear resin...?
First, the type of resin you're describing is an epoxy resin (mixed one to one).
The other main kind of craft resin is polyester resin (mixed a few drops of catalyst/hardener to a much larger amount of resin), and that type can stay sticky on the surface which dried next to the air normally, so it's usually used for casting in molds or using between sheets of fiberglass.
Epoxy resins aren't supposed to be cast or layered more than 1/8'; at a time (up to a total of 1/2';)... when doing more than one layer, each layer has to be cured before the next one is added. Don't know if that could be your problem though.
Wood can be a problem too since if it hasn't been sealed it may always contain a bit of residual moisture (which can make bubbles at least) and it's porous.
So if you're using bare wood tiles, you might want to seal them first (permanent white glue thinned 3 or 4 to 1 with water is probably easiest), then let dry thoroughly before they come in contact with the resin.
The other thing is that there are specific conditions required for the best cure of resins... humidity and temperature (as well as proper mixing proportions, mixing, and applying).
Here some info about those issues from my site:
Work in reasonably well ventilated area
...do not mix or pour in direct sunlight
...best results, temperatures between 68掳 and 80掳
...best hardness, pour and cure at humidity below 50%
...mix up only the amount you'll use in 20 minutes or less (...for larger areas, best to have a helper to make new batches)
Mixing......(keep capped tightly when not in use)
...pour resin in one cup and hardener in another cup (equal amounts)...
...then pour one part into the other part
...mix very thoroughly for 1-2 min (for clearest result)... scraping the sides and bottom of container continuously
...some people recommend pouring into a new cup (then mixing 30 sec. more), so any unmixed liquid in bottom will stay in first cup
......uncured 鈥榮ticky鈥? spots will result from any part of the liquid which is not thoroughly mixed (can't chemically react, so won't cure)
........in that case, scrape the spots from the cured surface... scrub well with acetone or rubbing alcohol... then re-pour entire surface
Allow item to cure in a warm, draft free and non-dusty room ....away from children, pets, activity, fans, etc.
......protect resin surface from dust %26amp; pet hair during curing by placing a cardboard box over the item, for example
...leave undisturbed for at least 24 hrs.
......sets up in 3-5 hrs, depending on temp %26amp; humidity
......cures to touch in 12 hrs.
......full cure in 48-72 hrs ...for example, at 80潞 (4 hr set up, 60 hr full cure), or at 70潞 (5 hr set up, 72 hr full cure)
There's more info on using epoxy resins and polyester resins on that page, if you want to check it out:
http://glassattic.com/polymer/other_mate鈥?/a>
You can always add more epoxy resin over epoxy resin (or over polyester resin, though no polyester over epoxy), and/or scrape or sand it down first to get rid of any stickiness presuming you do everything else right the final time, I guess.
HTH,
Diane B.Question about making jewelry with clear resin...?
The resin you're mentioning is in two parts, 1 is the resin itself then the other 1 is a hardener combine the two will result to a hard resin finish with a glossy look not adding enough of 1 will cause it to be to hard or to soft.Try doing what you think will work if not i am sad to say you have to do all your work over again. p.s. the stickiness is the result of not enough hardener being mix. always make sure the two parts starts off equal.
Try putting it under a heat lamp , sometimes the humidity may take it longer to dry ;)))
Thursday, February 11, 2010
Is there a recipe to make your own clear casting resin? it's so expensive to buy?
It is expensive, I know. But I don't believe there's really a do it yourself recipe, there's too many ingredients involved to do this. If this is for something very small, for something like a sealer you COULD use clear fingernail polish. But that's if you're really in a pinch. But it would work. But for ';casting';, no, I think you have to purchase the actual products.
Search dickblick.com, they have casting supplies %26amp; are the best prices around.
Search dickblick.com, they have casting supplies %26amp; are the best prices around.
What kind of clear resin can you use on an outdoor table that won't turn yellow from the sun?
I am making a pool side table with a beaded top. I need to cover the beads with a clear resin. I have checked Envirotex lite %26amp; Klear Kote that they use on bars, both say not to use outside. The UV rays will yellow them. There has to be somehting to put on an ouside table top that won't yellow or amber with age. Both the Fiberglass boat shops %26amp; the Envirotex Co. sent me to the bar top people. Has anyone made anything like this %26amp; used a clear resin on it?What kind of clear resin can you use on an outdoor table that won't turn yellow from the sun?
I would suggest a water based gloss polyurethane. Many, thin coats. I would recommend 8-10 coats.
Update - Water based poly dries so fast you should be able to easily put on 10 coats a day. You could put on 100 coats if you wanted to.. Just keep going until you feel satisfied.
I suppose another option is you could take a sheet of glass and with a torch (Probably MAPP or Acetylene) melt the glass into the beads, depending on the type of beads you are using.What kind of clear resin can you use on an outdoor table that won't turn yellow from the sun?
ODD that you were sent away by a Boat Mfg. That would be my first suggestion, Fiberglass resin, seeing as how much it has to endure applied to a boat.
One answer states check things such as UV rated resins, and perhaps MSDS sheets would offer some clue?
No offense at all, but it seems as if more research is needed. The issue certainly is the yellowing, and even outdoor bars aren't involved in the critical nature that implies.
Steven Wolf
Have you considered a Glass top over?
http://www.clearstarcorp.com/products.as鈥?/a>
or maybe use any resin then buy a clear anti-uv top coat.
Resin is probably not the way to go as a top finish.
If you asked for a resin at ';boat people'; it's probably the reason they turned you to the ';bar people';
Resins are not used on the ';brightwork'; you will find on boats
Go back to the ';boat people'; , ask about a marine varnish %26amp; see what they can recommend for your purpose .
Spar varnish withstands weather %26amp; is used on spruce , masts %26amp; spars as well as mahogany %26amp; teak for interior %26amp; exterior use ....pine? might want to rethink a glossy finish.
Mc Kloskeys is an over the counter ';spar varnish'; which is OK
Better stuff at marine supply.
Would not use polyurethane ';varnish ';, it will get scabby %26amp; is tough to redo.
In any event ,check the cans of whatever you use to see if it is ';food safe';
Best regards
I would suggest a water based gloss polyurethane. Many, thin coats. I would recommend 8-10 coats.
Update - Water based poly dries so fast you should be able to easily put on 10 coats a day. You could put on 100 coats if you wanted to.. Just keep going until you feel satisfied.
I suppose another option is you could take a sheet of glass and with a torch (Probably MAPP or Acetylene) melt the glass into the beads, depending on the type of beads you are using.What kind of clear resin can you use on an outdoor table that won't turn yellow from the sun?
ODD that you were sent away by a Boat Mfg. That would be my first suggestion, Fiberglass resin, seeing as how much it has to endure applied to a boat.
One answer states check things such as UV rated resins, and perhaps MSDS sheets would offer some clue?
No offense at all, but it seems as if more research is needed. The issue certainly is the yellowing, and even outdoor bars aren't involved in the critical nature that implies.
Steven Wolf
Have you considered a Glass top over?
http://www.clearstarcorp.com/products.as鈥?/a>
or maybe use any resin then buy a clear anti-uv top coat.
Resin is probably not the way to go as a top finish.
If you asked for a resin at ';boat people'; it's probably the reason they turned you to the ';bar people';
Resins are not used on the ';brightwork'; you will find on boats
Go back to the ';boat people'; , ask about a marine varnish %26amp; see what they can recommend for your purpose .
Spar varnish withstands weather %26amp; is used on spruce , masts %26amp; spars as well as mahogany %26amp; teak for interior %26amp; exterior use ....pine? might want to rethink a glossy finish.
Mc Kloskeys is an over the counter ';spar varnish'; which is OK
Better stuff at marine supply.
Would not use polyurethane ';varnish ';, it will get scabby %26amp; is tough to redo.
In any event ,check the cans of whatever you use to see if it is ';food safe';
Best regards
Thermal Conductivity in Clear Resin ??
I think this is the term i am looking for !!
Basically, laptops create a lot of heat , so if i sit a piece of clear resin(1inch thick) between my self and my laptop, would it stop the heat passing through or at least slow it down.
Thankyou.Thermal Conductivity in Clear Resin ??
Well, yeah! The burning question is what's going to happen to your laptop if you retard the flow of heat away from it? Your laptop contains millions of transistors, all of which generate heat and rely on thermal dissapation for cooling. That's why it makes your legs warm -- it's cooling itself. Doing what you suggest may cool your lap but overheat your laptop.Thermal Conductivity in Clear Resin ??
Plastics (clear resins) are usually classified as insulators, so they would have relatively low thermal conductivity, and a sheet should tend to insulate your legs from the heat of the laptop.
Of course it depends on the thickness, too, and the exact type of plastic you use.
.
Basically, laptops create a lot of heat , so if i sit a piece of clear resin(1inch thick) between my self and my laptop, would it stop the heat passing through or at least slow it down.
Thankyou.Thermal Conductivity in Clear Resin ??
Well, yeah! The burning question is what's going to happen to your laptop if you retard the flow of heat away from it? Your laptop contains millions of transistors, all of which generate heat and rely on thermal dissapation for cooling. That's why it makes your legs warm -- it's cooling itself. Doing what you suggest may cool your lap but overheat your laptop.Thermal Conductivity in Clear Resin ??
Plastics (clear resins) are usually classified as insulators, so they would have relatively low thermal conductivity, and a sheet should tend to insulate your legs from the heat of the laptop.
Of course it depends on the thickness, too, and the exact type of plastic you use.
.
S.L.R is a clear resin block with a picture in them , where can I get it done?
i thought it stood for single lens reflex. (a type of camera function)S.L.R is a clear resin block with a picture in them , where can I get it done?
Heather is correct in the meaning of SLR.
Try a craft shop for Bonda clear casting resin and a mould of the size you want. It comes in 250g, 500g and 1kg cans (Why do they give a measure of weight for a liquid?)
A smaller container is fitted under the can with the liquid catalyst to make the resin harden.
Not sure how toxic the fumes are but suggest doing it outside or very well ventilated room.S.L.R is a clear resin block with a picture in them , where can I get it done?
ART AND CRAFT SHOPS SELL THE KITS OR TRY APICTURE FRAMERS AND SEE WHAT THERE SELLINGceleb myspace
Heather is correct in the meaning of SLR.
Try a craft shop for Bonda clear casting resin and a mould of the size you want. It comes in 250g, 500g and 1kg cans (Why do they give a measure of weight for a liquid?)
A smaller container is fitted under the can with the liquid catalyst to make the resin harden.
Not sure how toxic the fumes are but suggest doing it outside or very well ventilated room.S.L.R is a clear resin block with a picture in them , where can I get it done?
ART AND CRAFT SHOPS SELL THE KITS OR TRY APICTURE FRAMERS AND SEE WHAT THERE SELLING
Resin Jewelry and clear resin?
Where can i buy cheap resin is the us? Clear epoxy resin. The cheapest i can find is 26$ for 32 ounces. and that is a lottt. also any creative ideas of things to put in my necklaces?Resin Jewelry and clear resin?
You can buy clear epoxy resin at craft, hobby and art supply stores, or online of course, and you can also buy somewhat larger amounts at some hardware stores (sold as ';bartop resins';) and online. They aren't ';really cheap'; anywhere though.**
You can put anything into epoxy resin (or polyester resin though it gets a bit hotter while curing) that won't melt, is color-fast so won't bleed, is completely dry, and isn't porous --porous items like paper and things that aren't colorfast can be sealed though before placing in the resin.
You can read all about using epoxy resin on this page at my site if you're interested:
http://glassattic.com/polymer/other_mate鈥?/a>
There are also brand names listed there, as well as info on application, etc., etc., and also links to other lessons.
NOTE that epoxy resins are not the same as polyester resins, though brands of both will be found at craft/hobby/art stores. They have to be used differently (in *deep* molds or not, for example), they have different ';toxic'; ratings, they're mixed in different proportions, etc.
**Polyester resins are a bit cheaper by volume than epoxy resins, though as I said they're different.
There are also other clear liquids that can be used instead of 2-part resins when making certain kinds of things though... for some of those, check out the the page linked to above and click on the category called ';Simulations of Resin.';
HTH,
Diane B.Resin Jewelry and clear resin?
The resin used for fiberglass cloth is a *polyester* resin, but not a very good or reliable version to use for art or crafts.... cheaper though usually.
check craft stores. my local Michael's has resin for 15bucks.
You can put pretty much anything in the resin. Metals, plastics, magazine clippings, bugs, flowers, leaves, etc. Anything printed by a home inkjet printer onto regular paper has a tendancy to smudge and run. Crepe or tissue paper is great for slightly tinting the resin.
Can't help you with the resin, but here's some ideas of things to put inside...
Buttons, glitter, beads, thread
little plastic toys
game pieces
nuts and bolts
a key
leaf, seedpod, bark
silk flowers
I've also seen them made with gumdrops and sprinkles too.
Hope that helps
You can buy clear epoxy resin at craft, hobby and art supply stores, or online of course, and you can also buy somewhat larger amounts at some hardware stores (sold as ';bartop resins';) and online. They aren't ';really cheap'; anywhere though.**
You can put anything into epoxy resin (or polyester resin though it gets a bit hotter while curing) that won't melt, is color-fast so won't bleed, is completely dry, and isn't porous --porous items like paper and things that aren't colorfast can be sealed though before placing in the resin.
You can read all about using epoxy resin on this page at my site if you're interested:
http://glassattic.com/polymer/other_mate鈥?/a>
There are also brand names listed there, as well as info on application, etc., etc., and also links to other lessons.
NOTE that epoxy resins are not the same as polyester resins, though brands of both will be found at craft/hobby/art stores. They have to be used differently (in *deep* molds or not, for example), they have different ';toxic'; ratings, they're mixed in different proportions, etc.
**Polyester resins are a bit cheaper by volume than epoxy resins, though as I said they're different.
There are also other clear liquids that can be used instead of 2-part resins when making certain kinds of things though... for some of those, check out the the page linked to above and click on the category called ';Simulations of Resin.';
HTH,
Diane B.Resin Jewelry and clear resin?
The resin used for fiberglass cloth is a *polyester* resin, but not a very good or reliable version to use for art or crafts.... cheaper though usually.
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check craft stores. my local Michael's has resin for 15bucks.
You can put pretty much anything in the resin. Metals, plastics, magazine clippings, bugs, flowers, leaves, etc. Anything printed by a home inkjet printer onto regular paper has a tendancy to smudge and run. Crepe or tissue paper is great for slightly tinting the resin.
Can't help you with the resin, but here's some ideas of things to put inside...
Buttons, glitter, beads, thread
little plastic toys
game pieces
nuts and bolts
a key
leaf, seedpod, bark
silk flowers
I've also seen them made with gumdrops and sprinkles too.
Hope that helps
Are all clear casting resin the the same? for doing craft type projects. I got mine from a hardward store?
I don't get a nice finish [wavely] But, when I first pour it ! It looks really nice then, I guess it starts to jells! .....help.....haha!Are all clear casting resin the the same? for doing craft type projects. I got mine from a hardward store?
NOOOO... not all the same at all... there are many types for many different projects. Plus... the most important part of it is not the resin itself, but the mold. For clear resin, the mold needs to be smooth and very clean. Go to
www.brickintheyard.com
Mitch is a friend of mine... he'll help you out. Plus, if you want to know a bit about how to do things, check out his U tube instructional videos
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qC0jOIPTO鈥?/a>
Good Luck
Izabela
www.belaart.com
NOOOO... not all the same at all... there are many types for many different projects. Plus... the most important part of it is not the resin itself, but the mold. For clear resin, the mold needs to be smooth and very clean. Go to
www.brickintheyard.com
Mitch is a friend of mine... he'll help you out. Plus, if you want to know a bit about how to do things, check out his U tube instructional videos
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qC0jOIPTO鈥?/a>
Good Luck
Izabela
www.belaart.com
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